26 March – Toledo / Granada

We’re heading south to the state of Andalusia. But first we stop in the historic town of Toledo.

Toledo, once the capital of Spain, is a city of churches–there’s 85 of them, we were told–that may have helped give rise to that oft’ used exclamation, “Holy Toledo!”

This is a very photogenic city. From the winding road across the river leading to the Roman bridge, it is difficult to take a bad picture. And there were lots of visual surprises as we walked uphill, downhill and around corners on the narrow, winding streets of the old town.

After crossing the bridge, we found ourselves entering the old Jewish Quarter where tile markers embedded on buildings and walkways identified the neighborhood as such. Ironically, the first major building we visit here is a monastery church.

The Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes was founded (and funded) by Queen Isabella I as a final resting place for the royal monarchs. That is until the royal couple conquered the Moors in 1492. After occupying Granada, the last Moorish holdout, they decided to have the Royal Crypt built there instead, the site of their greatest victory.

But there was a story to be told before entering the church regarding the chains hanging on the external wall. These were the chains of imprisoned Christians that were freed when Ferdinand and Isabella conquered the Moorish stronghold in Granada. There had once been many more of these shackles, but time and weather have taken their toll. Fascinating, right?

Well, not as fascinating as the huge pedestal’d statue of hula hooping Jesus!

Actually, I almost missed the whole prisoners’ chains thing. When I first caught sight of the bronze figure, it was backlit and appeared to be a young girl at play. However, from behind, the figure was obviously a Jesus–his crucifixion loin cloth gave it away– which could have been pulled right off any crucifixion. But then they added a hoop…and the piece became an homage to the rapturous joy of successful hula hooping. And it made us smile.

Still amused, we entered the church buildings. Passing through the cloister and entering the transept, we found a feast of religious and royal iconography at every turn. Like the elaborate altar piece (not original), crowned with a painting of Franciscan brothers and sisters welcoming Mary. None are as enthusiastic as the saint himself, Francis, seen gobsmacked with joy as he throws his arms wide open as if to give the Virgin a welcoming bear hug. I also liked the ring of heads atop an elaborate column, with prying eyes peering out at the congregation. The architect even gave himself a prime location as the sole figure on the choir’s front panel. And to ensure that everyone would know who foot the bill for this extravagance, there is an enormous stone panel spanning the transept wall with repeated images of the (pre-Granada) coats of arms of the Catholic Monarchs.

This was also the first church in which we got up close and personal with one of the Holy Week processional floats, stored here until needed.

Leaving the monastery, we continued further into Toledo, reaching the oldest still-existent synagogue building in Spain. Designed and built by the only capable craftsmen in Toledo at the time, Moors, there is a distinctive Moorish feel to the building. When the Jews were expelled from Spain, it was converted to a church. (Hence, the cross seen below.) There is one Star of David incorporated into the geometric designs that canvas the walls.

Leaving the former synagogue, we passed through the commercial hub of the Jewish Quarter. Walking down some stairs, we emerged in the governmental triangle, a plaza flanked by the Cathedral, the Cardinal’s Palace and City Hall. Our next stop was the main square, close to the Alcazar and lined with shops and restaurants (including McDonald’s). Here, we broke for lunch and then used our remaining free time to explore the side street shops. Finally, we parked ourselves at an outdoor cafe with a commanding view of the square, sipping glasses of vermut until it was time to regroup and continue on our journey to Granada.